ZEGNA's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, titled "L'Oasi di Lino" or "The Oasis of Linen," embraced the concept of lightness in both being and behaving. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Sartori, the brand consistently strives for originality and authenticity, and this season's presentation revolved around the versatile fabric of linen. The location itself, Piazza San Fedele in Milan, was adorned with 192 bales of raw linen, which were not merely props but would be transported back to the factory for the creation of Oasi Lino products, reflecting ZEGNA's commitment to circular values.
The show exemplified a circular approach as well, with a multitude of looks that seamlessly complemented, continued, and echoed one another, forming a cohesive ZEGNA uniform. Sartori emphasized the concept of an efficient wardrobe by creating a system of elements including tops, bottoms, underpinnings, and accessories that can be combined and self-styled according to individual preferences. This notion of a uniform encourages non-uniformity, as traditional matching suits are replaced by the freedom to mix and match different pieces, shapes, and hues. The construction of the garments cleverly conceals functional elements while highlighting texture. The overall effect exudes a sense of understated luxury, with a quiet elegance juxtaposed by intricate details, a rich color palette, and limitless possibilities for combinations.
The tailored ensembles showcased in the collection exuded a relaxed and comfortable vibe, striking a balance between unrestricted movement and elegance. Soft natural hues dominated ZEGNA's wardrobe, and round-neck tops took the place of traditional jackets, bombers seamlessly transitioned into shirts, and sack jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves conveyed an effortless sense of luxurious ease.
The collection's richness, substance, and monochromatic beauty were a result of the diverse fabrications employed by ZEGNA. Linen gabardine, linen faille, compact linen knit, compact Blue Flower linen, satin linen, jute oxford, washi paper, raffia, silk pipeline, seta tussa, recycled wool granité, double-faced wool, tela vela, mohair poplin, line and bourette, silk canvas, hammered nabuk, and bonded calf leather all came together harmoniously. Despite the varied textures, the collection retained a light and summery feel, showcasing ZEGNA's masterful skill in creating a definitive summer wardrobe.